Wednesday, September 28, 2011

The webs we weave

As I packed my suitcases for China, I thought of the countless other suitcases I have packed (and unpacked) over the years. Every suitcase is another story, another opportunity for new experiences and meeting new people. I think about the many people I have met along the way and how their stories have influenced and changed mine.

My first week in China was no exception. I arrived to meet a group of excited and engaging individuals (most of which have only just graduated from college and so have the anxious "get-up and go" mentality we all did when it was time to start our first job). The week was full of events where we got to know each other and started to become familiar with the country we will be calling home.

It is fun to look back at how much I've changed (and grown) since I graduated from college. Even more remarkable is how much I've changed since high school. Now that I'm surrounded by high school students, I am reminded of my own college application process and all the expectations and dreams I had for my life. I remember the hopeful expectation that my life would change, and what those changes would encompass.

I was, like so many high school students, convinced I knew more than most and that everything would go swimmingly. My senior year in high school was just the beginning of what would be an amazing journey (but certainly not an easy one). Senior year was full of ups and downs. I made new friends, I lost old ones. I faced the reality that things would never be same after graduation and had to grow up a bit when adversity afflicted my family. I learned that its the things you don't plan for that end up having some of the biggest influences on your life. I learned that who you are is actually tied into where you grew up and the people who surrounded you then. I learned that saying good-bye doesn't have to be forever and that having a few really good friends is more valuable than having many acquaintances. High school was what it is for so many of us, a blur of emotions and moments that I don't really want to experience again, but am glad happened.


Over 11 years later and 7000 miles away, those lessons are with me still. What started as a naivete, turned into stubbornness and eventually became acceptance. My life certainly did not turn out the way I pictured it back in high school, but I can honestly say I don't regret any of it. I grew from it all and it has all added to who I am today (and if I do say so myself, I think I'm better person than I was back in high school).

Hope springs eternal

There comes a point (or multiple points) in everyone's life where you stop to think about what you want or why you ended up where you are. The past five weeks in China have allowed me much time to think about the future, my goals, my dreams and how I think I could possibly get there.

While being here, I have stretched myself in all kinds of ways. I have eaten food that I would never have considered anywhere else. I have gone online and met random people and been pleasantly surprised by just how normal they actually are. I have learned to work in yet another culture and among another work ethic. I am continuing to learn how to bite my tongue when necessary and when to speak. I am slowly growing more and more comfortable with myself, my place in China and in life.

In the end I have decided that the only I can do is put myself out there, know who I am, want I want and eventually things will sort themselves out. If my life wanted me in China, maybe it's because I'm supposed to learn something here or meet someone here. Either way, I'm going to make the most of it, and be who I am no matter what and hope it all works itself out in the end.

I guess it all boils down to having faith and hope that there is a plan, even if I don't  know what it is.  I trust that while I don't know what tomorrow will bring, I am strong enough to get through it and become better for it. Life isn't about the easy choices, it's about waking up every morning and being comfortable with the person you see in the mirror. Life is about the people you meet, both the ones you like and the ones you don't like, and how they influence and change you (or how much you let them change you). Life is about learning from every new experience, be it positive or negative, and realizing that all of it matters because even the little things can make a big difference. I am doing my best to accept that while sometime I don't know how it is all going to add up, I just need to believe (somewhat blindly) that it will.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Qingyuan

The hardest part of living in China so far has been meeting people. As I mentioned in my previous post, I work in a office where I am the only person who has not born in mainland China and speaks a grand total of about 10 Chinese words. This makes relating to my co-workers difficult. Add to that, that while they work from 9-6, I usually work from 1-10, part of which happens at a school. The school does have expat teachers, but I never get to see them because by the time I arrive (at 5pm) they have all left. I have always had great difficulty in making friends, and my current situation and work-life balance (or unbalance) is making things worse.

Because of my living and working situation, it was suggested that I join an expat online community. Maybe this way I could meet other expats living in Shenzhen. So I did. I joined a network called "Internations."

I find it particularly difficult to fill out online profiles. I never feel quite comfortable putting any kind of personal information on website that automatically shares it with complete strangers (which is only compounded when said strangers are online and thus completely obscure). But I did it anyway. I was desperate just to talk to someone, anyone, and this seemed like the best way (and the only way) to find said person. A couple of days later, I got a message from R. He said that he was also fairly new to the area and looking to meet people. Sounded harmless so we agreed to meet for lunch.

Turns out R was in Shenzhen for an internship and only had about two weeks left in town. We chatted while eating with our chopsticks. He mentioned he was going to rafting over the weekend (it was a long weekend). I mentioned that sounded like fun.

A couple of hours later I get a text. R is inviting me to join him for the weekend. He has asked his friend (with whose family we'd be staying if that is ok, and the friend has apparently agreed). I have to work on Sat morning, but according to R that shouldn't be a problem. What the heck? I agree.

So after my Sat morning meetings (which actually ran closer to 1pm), we are off. R's friend is J, a very nice Chinese guy who speaks pretty good English. He drives a bright orange BYD (stands for "Build Your Dreams" it's a Chinese car company), there are no seat belts in the back seat (where R and I are sitting), J assures us he is a very safe driver and we have nothing to worry about. The drive is non-eventful, I have my laptop out most of the three hour drive and am busy editing essays. I barely have a chance to look out the window.

We arrive in Qingyuan. We are greeted by J's cousin B, we will be staying at his house. B is married with a young son. We walk up to his apartment (he lives on the seventh floor and their is no elevator) and are greeted by his wife. I should probably mention that B and his wife do not speak English. We are shown to our rooms (I am apparently taking over B's parents room, which makes me a little uncomfortable but am assured that this is no problem because they can stay at another son's house). Ok. We eat dinner and are off to see J's other cousin, who has just bought a new apt in the city center.

Another set of stairs, J's cousin lives on the 9th floor. As soon as we arrive it starts to pour. J's cousin speaks some English but seems very shy and doesn't say much. After the rain, J tells us we are going out for tea. On our walk to the restaurant, I learn that this cousin used to teach English, but that she now feels that her English is quite poor, because she stopped teaching over 5 years ago. We arrive at the restaurant, someone clears a table at the sight of me and R (we are very obviously the only foreigners there, there was a lot of staring). As soon as we sit down, J's cousins start to order food. We eat, drink and laugh and soon realize it has gotten late. We all say goodbye and head back to B's.

The following morning we head out to go rafting. We arrive and see that instead of rafting, we will actually be "drifting." Ok, I think. This will be a nice relaxing ride down the river. I was wrong. We are bussed up to the "loading site" where we are instructed to put on life jackets and helmets. Two people per inflatable boat, so R and I share a boat. We board and are on our way. Down a set of man made rapids! Thus the helmet, and let me tell you, we NEEDED that helmet. After the first set of rapids I had to tie my shoes to my life jacket so that they wouldn't fall off and disappear into the questionable water. I have to admit though, it was a fun ride. After every set of rapids there was like a waiting pool where people would splash each other with bowl and other household utensils. All good fun. By the end, we were soaking wet and smiling.

After showering in the local locker room, we went for lunch. After lunch we went to Felai temple. To get there we boarded a tiny little boat and sailed down the Bei Jiang river. This is an old Buddhist temple that used to be up on the mountains, but about 50 years ago the Chinese government decided that made it too hard to get to for tourists, so they transplanted the whole thing down to the riverbed. While I can't imagine moving an entire temple just for the sake of tourists, I have to say I'm glad they did. The view of temple along the river is stunning and the temple itself is decorated with all kinds of gold and stone that just takes your breath away.

The day ended with our little boat heading back to the city during the sun set. It was beautiful. The sun turned a bright red and against the water and the trees. I closed my eyes and reminded myself that these are the moments worth remembering, this is why I travel, this is why I came to China.

The next morning, we woke up early to head to Guangzhou. We needed to visit yet another of J's cousins. This cousin's wife had just had a baby boy (three days earlier). I was a bit uncomfortable to just show up at their house, but they were very hospitable and even showed us the baby (who was sleeping). We then went to lunch, had tea, were given tea to take home and eventually made it back to Shenzhen.

Shenzhen

After what can only described as a "difficult" arrival in Shenzhen I prepared myself for a day full of student meetings. I had been warned that the students I would be working with had high expectations and that to them we were already behind schedule (mind you, it is still August at this point). So I walk into the office and quickly given a tour, meet lots of new office-mates and set up for my first meeting.

While I had already spoken to all 15 of my clients over Skype and had been in email correspondence with them for a couple of weeks, these meetings were enlightening. I was able to really hear the students for the first time. They were all eager to get started, and slightly terrified of what lay ahead, the dreaded college application. I didn't really have the heart to tell them that I was just as new at organizing applications as they were, so instead I try to keep the focus on them. I asked what they wanted, what they liked, where they wanted to go... I got lots of blank stares and "what do YOU think"? It dawned on me that these were not the overzealous applicants I had met when working the admissions circuit for Penn, these were a totally different type of kid.

Now I know that some of you may be thinking, "What did you expect Cata?" and the truth is I'm not sure what I expected, but this wasn't it. These are kids that are put under ENORMOUS amounts of pressure to succeed, but at the end of the day have a hard time expressing what they like and why. It's like they have a hive community where thinking as an individual is discouraged, and this is totally thrown me for a loop. I am not in the business of telling kids where to apply, what major to study or what to write their essays about, but to many of them it seemed like this was exactly the kind of "advice" they were looking for. Oh boy. So my job for that week basically was about managing expectations. Explaining (in as much as I could) that I would help guide them to the edge, but it was up to them to jump.

In addition to this new way of thinking of college counseling and working with high strung kids, I was also under pressure from my office to find an apartment. Ordinarily this would not be a terribly difficult thing to do, and I had been with some of my colleagues in Shanghai while they looked for theirs, and the market didn't seem too bad. Boy was I wrong. Before the excursion began, I was asked "what are you looking for?" I thought my request was simple enough, I need one bedroom, a kitchen where there is room to cook and a bathroom that has a separate shower (in case you didn't know, there are lots of bathrooms here in China where the shower is simply a handle hanging over the toilet, so in essence the whole bathroom is the shower and you have to maneuver yourself around said toilet in order to bathe properly). "Ok" and off we went.

I should mention that in order to find an apartment in China you have to go through an agent, and there are TONS of agents EVERYWHERE. The only trouble I had was that most of them speak absolutely no English. So my office colleague volunteered to translate for me. The first apartment we saw was near the hotel I was staying at. I was told that it was supposed to be "very nice." We walk in, I very quickly realize that my definition of "very nice" and the agent's definition of "very nice" are VERY different. The apartment is dirty, but more than that the kitchen is about the size of a broom closet and the fridge is places somewhere in the living room. I look at my colleague, this is nice? What happened to my requests? How exactly am I supposed to cook in this kitchen? He shrugs, says something to the agent in Chinese and we leave the apartment. The next is worse. The third one is a repetition of the second. The fourth one doesn't even have shower. I'm starting to get really frustrated.

Three days go by and the "office manager" comes to my desk. "I hear you are having a hard time find an apartment. Sounds like that you have very high standards" Now I'm willing to chalk this up to a 'lost in translation' kind of deal, but I'm about to lose it at this point. By now, I have realized that no one seems willing to listen to me, and why should they, I am the only foreigner in the office, they've never had to deal with someone like me before, they don't know what to do with me. And to make matters worse, I'm not staying for long. Friday rolls around and I email my boss, we need to talk. He calls asks me how I'm doing, I say I've been better and this sets the tone for what comes next. I'm frustrated, exhausted (I've been working late and hunting for apartments in the morning) and feeling completely isolated. I agreed to come to Shenzhen for the benefit of the kids and am now feeling like this was a HUGE mistake. My boss seems to realize that I am about two days from just calling it quits. He says he is going to make some calls. I say I'm going to look for apartments in the expat neighborhood (which is an hour away from the office and two hours away from the school).

Monday, I have found an apartment in the expat neighborhood that fits the budget I've been allocated. I tell the office. They look at me in horror. "You want to live in WHICH neighborhood? But that's an hour commute!!!" I know, but it's the only apartment I've seen (and by this time I've seen like 25 apartments in about 5 days) that fits my requirements and where I don't feel like a fish out of water. I need to meet people and make friends, and I can't do that in an office where no one really talks to me because they don't want to have to talk in English. They look upset. "We need to make a call." Ok. Off they go. Two hours they come back, "we want you to look at a couple more apartments." Why? "Becuase they are closer to the office and we think it will be better." Fine.

Tuesday morning, I see the same agent, same colleague and we are in a new apartment complex. "This place looks more expensive" my colleague tells me, "maybe the VP upped your budget." I sigh. We open the first apartment, more of the same, bathroom/shower/ toilet situation. Then the second apartment. The first thing I noticed was the light, I had been so focused on the kitchen and bathroom in other places I hadn't even considered how dark they were, but this place had windows. Then I noticed the kitchen. It was actually a full blown kitchen. Final test, the bathroom, there is a shower curtain separating the "shower" from the rest of the bathroom, not my favorite (particularly considering that it is about a foot short) but better than any of the other ones I've seen. All three men look at me, "well?" Sure. When can I move in?

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

The Importance of Being Earnest

What is it about the truth that seems to scare us?

I strongly believe in speaking the truth, to the point that it has gotten me into trouble more than once. That being said, here is my truth today. I really don't like Shenzhen.

"Shenzhen?" you ask. Yes, I was cornered into agreeing to be in Shenzhen for the next three months. It was one of those "it's your choice" (but it really isn't) kind of moments. So once again I packed up my very suitcases and headed to yet ANOTHER airport.

It would appear that my arrival in Shenzhen (and departure from Shanghai) was some kind of foreshadowing of things to come. It started at the airport in Shanghai.

I arrived at the airport and checked in with no problem. I found my way around the various security check points and finally made it my gate. To my displeasure, the gate read that the gate had been delayed. So I called my contact in Shenzhen (yes by this point I have purchased a phone... more on this phone later) and told him that I would be arriving about 45 min late. He said he would contact the driver. Great. After about 45 min of sitting there, there an announcement made (in Chinese) and everyone gets up and heads for the stairs... finally the English translation follows. Our gate has been changed. Nothing out of the ordinary, I thought, but I noticed that my fellow travelers do not look happy. We finally arrive at our second gate (it was no where near the first one) and sit down. Then another announcement, our flight has been delayed further. Now my fellow passengers are starting to get angry and a crowd of them gathers by the gate and begin in a lively "conversation" with the flight representative. Ok, they are simply trying to get more information, I thought, no problem. Well, to my surprise, suddenly I hear this "conversation" and overflowed to a full blown argument, people are yelling (in Chinese, which when you don't speak the language just makes them sound even more angry). Then, the announcement. Our flight has been delayed, indefinitely. Huh? So now I try to mosey over to the counter and see that once again, everyone is leaving. I look at the one other white person I can find, he shrugs his shoulders and just says "we should follow the crowd." We do, all the way back to the check-in counters! Back at the check-in counters, more yelling, very boisterous and angry yelling. Finally, after switching line about three different times and getting multiple calls from my office asking me what is going one (and me trying to explain that all announcement thus far have been made in Chinese, a language, I don't yet understand), a nice Korean man translates for me (or rather has his friend translate for him who in turn translates for me). Our plane has some sort of "technical malfunction" and "should be departing" 3 hours behind schedule. The yelling is because people with luggage are not being allowed to change their flights. The yelling has worked apparently, and now people with luggage (like me) are being allowed to switch their flights. So I do. Several translations, interpretations and phone calls later, I go through security again and find my gate (again). This time, the plane leaves on time and I arrive in Shenzhen 2.5 hours behind schedule.

The arrival at the airport is pretty painless and my driver and interpreter/translator are waiting for me at the gate. We drive for almost 45 minutes and arrive at my hotel (which has been selected for me because "it is very close to the office"). I walk in the hotel room and the first thing I notice is the bathroom and the condoms for sale on the counter. I then notice how the walls seems to have remnants of something on them, the carpets look like they haven't been washed in years and the upholstery on the chair is, well, dirty. I don't want to touch anything, I don't even take off my shoes to shower. It is BAD. I call my sister in a bit of a panic, maybe I won't be staying in China that long after all.

The next morning I call my translator (he has said that if I need anything while in Shenzhen that he will be the person to help me get it). I say good morning and say that I need to talk about the hotel. "It is pretty bad, right?" he asks. YES. "We will find you another one." Great, although why they thought I would want to stay here in the first is beyond me. So the driver comes back, and takes me and my luggage to another hotel that "very close to the office." This one is much better.

And so Shenzhen begins.